Everything you need to know about how to learn to surf in the West Coast, USA … in a nutshell. Sort of.
Written by Delina Michael, @momateresax
I had my third surf lesson! We took a different board this time, which was much easier to manoeuvre (+25xp). 🤟🏽
I never got my head around how surfers stuck to their board. Even when I was told, I didn’t understand exactly how it worked. But the first time I jumped up on the board I found my foot just… stayed there. It made complete sense, it’s just a thick waterproof and sticky wax! My confidence grew quickly and I was able to push up onto the board and STAND UP 🏄🏼♀️.
BTW catching a wave is one of the best feelings ever; the moment you spot the wave, paddle out and realise the wave as scooped you up - it’s 10/10. However.. I quickly realised the next hurdle in my way - balance. 😭
Since my first surf lesson, I thought... better go the whole mile and get in with the culture too. Surf punk is probably the most fun thing about surfing. That’s not to say you don’t need to surf to listen to surf punk, or vice versa, but they really really complete each other🥂. It’s almost like visiting South Africa and not listening to Amapiano, you can do it, but it’s just not right.
My sources tell me that a surf punk playlist is essential when getting pumped up to catch a big one 🌊. During our two hour coast drive, it really got us pumped.
Key phrase: “Shred the gnar”
Defined by Maia (@spicymargmaia) as “Just like ripping you know like the wave, you know shredding?” Lmao (Basically meaning to ride with exceptional speed, ability, or enthusiasm, especially in difficult terrain and conditions) 🥵
Read about the origins here of the phrase here.
We’ve compiled a playlist for the best tracks for you to enjoy here - you're welcome.
And if you're curious you can check out this catalog of artists here.
This is an official welcome to the culture! 🍾
While wondering down Newport, we stumbled upon a rather colourful Ripley’s building which caught our attention (picture below, isn't she so cute!). We were out there for about 2 hours and all that activity had us STARVED. It felt like I hadn’t eaten in at least 2 days.
We parked the car and got out, only to hear odd shouting coming from the pier. We walked over to the crowd and saw over 30 sea lions perched on a deck down below. Some were sleeping, but as we watched we learned there was a drama unfolding as they shuffled around the deck.
We had perhaps stopped for 20 minutes watching it all unfold before we remembered our mission. Food time! We found a small Japanese 🇯🇵 restaurant with a view into the pier, which looked perfect.
Then we made a pit stop for a Yerba Matte for Maia, to keep her awake for the 2 hour drive home. I can’t tell you how many of these I’ve had since being here. Our typical surf routine included loading up on these before our drive, but this particular day, Maia was a bit tired so we ran out early - oh and we used one as a chaser for the tequila so there’s that.
Oh, of course, I have one picture of the sea lions - NOT to be confused with a seal. No no, completely different thing (the emoji one is a seal).
From left to right, view from the Japanese restaurant, the SEA LIONS 🥺, and me in my wetsuit (shadow mode).
Progress has been made! Progress is exciting! I’m still shocked I’m doing this 😭. Mission next time is to stand up for more than 5 seconds and catch like 3 waves… or 2.
See you soon adventurers!
Delina 🍒
Comments